5 Myths about relaxing your hair

I was doings some research and I came across this article and thought that I should share it with you:

Busting the Black Hair Myths – 5 Myths about Relaxing your Hair

What's wrong with relaxing your hair? Leading Trichologist, Noon Etienne, examines some of the myths around relaxing hair and offers some advice on how to make relaxing work for you. Myth No.1: 'I can relax my hair and braid it the next day' Noon Etienne: No, ladies! The newly processed hair is in a fragile state and you would need to wait at least 4 weeks before you can braid it. Myth No. 2: 'I can take my hair out of braids or weaves and put a relaxer on it the same day or the next day' Noon Etienne: This is totally wrong! To get the best results, you need to remove the braids and treat the hair with a reconstructive, moisturizing treatment. Then you should wait for at least one to two weeks before relaxing or retouching the roots. Myth No. 3: 'I can use a permanent colour on my hair and then put a relaxer on it the next week'. Noon Etienne: This is totally the wrong way around. The correct sequence is to relax the hair and then you can apply a rinse or semi permanent colour the same day - once you have neutralised and treated the hair. A permanent colour would not be recommended after having a relaxer process on the same day because the scalp would not be able to with stand the hydrogen peroxide that is found in the permanent colour – in other words, it will sting or burn the scalp! To get the best results, you need to remove the braids and treat the hair with a reconstructive, moisturizing treatment. Myth No. 4: 'My hair is totally natural, so I don't need to put any treatment on it before relaxing it' Noon Etienne: Well, ladies, that is wrong thinking! Even though your hair is natural, you still need to prepare your hair for the chemical process to 'take' correctly. When the hair is not at its best, the chemical will not relax the hair and may even cause damage to your hair, which will result in breakage in some areas. You should be taking good care of your natural hair with reconstructive, moisturizing treatments every week or two, then your hair will have the strength that it needs for the breakdown process of a relaxer. Myth No. 5: 'I can put a no-lye relaxer on and leave it for more than one hour!' Noon Etienne: This is what I call the "Oh, it's not burning yet" attitude –does it sound familiar, ladies? Well, something you need to know about ‘No-Lye relaxers’ is that it is "the biggest Lie in the hairdressing industry" Of course there are chemicals in the relaxer! There are several types of Lye chemicals - Sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and guanidine. Any of the relaxer kits that you purchase off-the-shelf would contain one of the latter thee ingredients and usually involve mixing a cream and a lotion together for the chemical to be activated. Even though this type of relaxer does not burn, it does not mean "you can leave it on until you feel the burn"! You will end up over-processing your hair, causing it to lose elasticity, moisture and strength. Noon Etienne is a qualified Trichologist and a specialist in scalp and hair care. She deals with hair loss, alopecia, scaly scalp and dry hair problems. Noon is a Cosmetologist (Beautician and Hair Designer) with over 20 years experience working with all types of hair. Originally from New York City, Noon is now based in London, from where she has built an international client base across the U.K., USA, Africa and the Middle East. Contact Noon at: Noon 4 Hair, 48 Porchester Road, London W2 6ET. Tel: + 44 (0)20 7034 0734, Fax: + 44 (0)20 7692 4657, e-mail:  noon.etienne@btconnect.com or  noon4truecolors@btconnect.com

Quick for today

Today I've moisturised and sealed. Now I am rocking my bun. Yes I have grey hairs and I am trying, really trying to embrace them.

Relaxer Day 23.02.13

So it's that time again, when the hair need to be relaxed. I really can't remember when I last relaxed it. But based on my investigative work..I am no less than 12 weeks post. Usually my hair start sulking past 10-12 weeks, so in order to avoid a full blown tantrum and have a set back, I indulged my hair with a dose of the creamy crack!

You guys know by now..this sista don't do DIY with this costic substance.  So off to the hair dresser I go.

He applied protectants to my scalp, hair line as well as my hair to avoid over processing in the event of over lap.

He then separated my hair in four sections

Working each section one at a time, he applied DE sensitive relaxer (creamy crack) to the hair. Leaving the edges last as they are most sensitive. Also the edges take the relaxer quicker than the rest of the hair. Leaving the ends till last ensure that the edges don't take before the rest of the hair had time to absorb the cream.

  Note: there isn't any cream on the ends of my hair. It is only applied to the new growth.

Washed out cream with the neutralizing Shampoo thoroughly!!

Many people believe that the hair should get a treatment after a relaxer but their is no need. ( I will discuss in a later blog) Applied 6 in 1 reconstructing conditioner and left on hair for few minutes

Rinse WELL

Applied moouse to damp hair and roller set

 Sat under hooded dryer for as long as it took to dry

Remove rollers and trimmed/dust hair ends- without CUTTING hair to affect length retention

Wrapped hair and tied with satin scarf - reasons: 1. Protect my hair from the environment ( winter) 2.I save time doing it at home. If I need to go out I just comb it down.

 Next day I took it down, moisturised and sealed

If I did it myself.. I would be working through the evening/night. Not doing it myself.....Max 4-5 hrs

Love my hairdresser.

HHJ- Ladyno

Mineral Oils/Petrolatum/Petroleum in black hair?

"Mineral oil is an colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes from a non-vegetable (mineral) source, particularly a distillate of petroleum. It is often a liquid by-product of the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline and other petroleum-based products from crude oil. It is related to petroleum jelly (also known as "white petrolatum"). It is very cheap, and it is produced in very large quantities. Some people may refer to mineral oil as melted wax, because the substance obtained when melting paraffin wax is basically the same as mineral oil."

Petroleum is a semi-solid substance that is composed of non-polar, water-repelling hydrocarbons. It is used widely in the cosmetics industry because it is cheaper to use as a filler ingredient than other oils.

The film that mineral oil creates on hair and and the use of petroleum or petroleum based products prevents moisture leaving the hair but also prevents moisture from getting in. Mineral oil despises water.  

Hair deprived of moisture leads to breakage.

Knowing what we do about black hair, we know that moisture is important to our hair. The question is..."Why are there so many black haircare products with mineral oil/petroleum in them?. ...COSTS CUTTING!!

Mineral oil/Petroleum blocks hair follicles, which makes the scalp dry (dandruff) and dirty and blocks hair growth. 

Practical- Try it (or not):

After washing your hands and whilst wet, try to moisturise your skin with petroleum jelly, or petrolatum. Its just sits on the skin and doesn't rub in.

The same thing happens with the scalp. It may hide dry scalp temporarily and can cause the hair to shine, but will not allow the hair to be properly moisturised. Some people use petroleum based-products to combat dry scalp but dry scalp is a lack of moisture getting to the scalp. The ingredients will eventually dry out and just sit on the scalp blocking hair follicles and more dandruff will top what's already on your scalp.

Practical- Try it (or not):

Applying petroleum based grease to your hair for moisturisation, Keep applying it and you will find your hair will begin to feel drier.

As the product builds up on the hair strands, moisture is blocked and is unable to enter the stands and hence the dryness.

Beware of these in the products that you buy. Check the ingredients. Minerals oil, Petrolatum and petroleum  can be found in Shampoos, conditioners, moisturisers and sealers. The only way to cleanse mineral oils from the hair is by washing your hair with sulfate shampoos. However, sulfate in our hair leads to another problem. 

Use 100%  pure natural oils:  for example – jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, Almond oil etc.

If you are starting out on your healthy hair journey, take care. Do your research and don't follow all the fads around and don’t believe the adverts on the bottles/cans/tubs or TV.

Links for information:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curly-hair-care-methods/coily-manifesto/using-mineral-oil-for-hair

http://blackgirllonghair.com/2011/10/rules-of-engagement-for-mineral-oil/

http://www.blackhairinformation.com/hair-problems/is-mineral-oil-really-all-that-bad/

Starting your healthy hair journey

Basics to Get You Started!

You Will Need:

1 Clarifying Shampoo
1 Moisturising Shampoo
1 Moisturising Deep Conditioner
1 Protein Deep Conditioner
A Leave-in Conditioner
1 Moisturiser
1 Natural Oil

Wide tooth comb
Satin/Silk Scarf and/or Satin Bonnet

- Shampoo your hair with a moisturising shampoo 1xweek (Preferably sulfate free)
- Use a moisturising deep conditioner with heat (At least 20mins) after every shampoo
- Always follow up with a leave-in conditioner
- Use a water-based moisturiser 2x/day (Morning & night) then seal in the moisture with a natural oil
- Always wear a satin/silk scarf or bonnet to bed
- Relax at least every 8/10 weeks (If You can go beyond that, even better)
- Do a protein treatment when needed (Whenever the hair feels very limp, mushy, overly soft etc.)
- Trim when needed
- Use a Clarifying shampoo (remove buildup) 1-2x/month (depending on the amount of product you use)
- Use a wide tooth comb to comb/detangle your hair. You'll experience less breakage.

1. Start with a nice cut.

Start with a nice, fresh cut. If your hair ends are badly damaged cut off those thin, damaged and brittle ends. Broken ends cannot be made healthy again no matter what product you use or what it promises.

2. Take hair pictures and start hair care journal.

Write down your thoughts and feelings about your hair, hair goals and the time frame you want to achieve them? Do you desire thickness, length or both? Take pictures of your hair every month or every relaxer to monitor your hair's progress. It amazing to see hair transform from thin and lifeless to thick and beautiful!

3. Trim those ends.

Clipping your ends at every as necessary with very sharp scissors. Don't hold on to them for length. They will damage the hair you are trying to keep healthy. Prevent split ends before they start because you can’t repair them once they are here.

4. If you choose to shampoo, shampoo 1-2 per week.

Always use a moisturising shampoo (sulfate-free)! Many of us don't wash our hair regularly but this only results in dry hair. Water is the supreme form of moisture. For growth to occur, it is very important to keep your scalp clean and healthy. Focus on the scalp and work your way through to the hair ends. Don't pile all of your hair on the top of your head, this will cause tangling and breakage.

5. Deep condition with high quality protein and / or moisturising conditioner weekly.

Deep condition your hair with plastic cap under the dryer at lease once per week! Moisturising "deep" conditioners penetrate the hair by infusing moisture into the hair strand. Protein conditioners strengthen the hair by adding amino acids to the areas of the hair strands that are weak. Use good quality conditioner with lots of slip to detangle the hair. If you are unable to deep condition under a dryer, apply a warm towel on your hair then apply a plastic cap and leave on for at least 15 minutes. Another option is to apply a deep penetrating conditioner to your hair followed by a plastic cap at night before sleeping. In the morning, rinse out the conditioner and style as usual.

6. Use a leave-in conditioner.

This is important! A high quality leave in conditioner will moisturise, detangle and protect the hair when heat styling. Leave-in conditioners will also prevent breakage and protect the hair from weather damage.

7. Look at your products!

Read the ingredients on all of your hair care products. Don’t use products containing petroleum and mineral oil to moisturise your hair. Products containing these ingredients will only coat the hair and not penetrate the hair strand. Therefore, the hair will not be moisturised. Stay away from alcohol based products as these will lead to hair that is dry, brittle and prone to breakage i.e.. hair spray, gels, mousses and spritz.

8. Keep moisture in the hair.

Dry hair breaks!It is so important to keep the hair moisturised. Many people seem to think "My hair just won't grow!". What's really happening is, the hair is growing yet it is breaking at the same rate hence, no length is retained. Moisture to your hair daily. Moisturising increases elasticity and decreases breakage. When moisturising the hair, focus on the hair ends.
9. Never use bristle brushes on wet hair.

Always detangle wet hair with a wide tooth comb or denman brush.

10. Relaxed ladies, listen up...

A. Don't overprocess your hair. If you relax your hair more than every 8 weeks, you are overprocessing your hair. It is best to relax every 8 to 10 weeks. If you can go a little longer without experiencing breakage, go for it. Overprocessing your hair will definitely result in damage and will ultimately lead to breakage.

B. (Caution: You may disagree with the following statement, Remember I did not write this) Say away from no lye relaxers (box kits). These relaxers are promoted as being less damaging yet far from the truth. Ca hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide (calcium hydroxide with guanidine carbonate) and lithium hydroxide will dry out the hair over time and leave mineral deposits on the hair making it difficult to moisturize resulting in constant dryness, split ends and dull looking hair. Using lye relaxers are highly recommended. Lye relaxers will allow the cuticle to lay flat resulting in shinier hair without the mineral deposits. If you have to relax with a no lye relaxer you MUST use a chelating shampoo after neutralizing. A chelating shampoo contains chelates which will attach themselves to the mineral deposits left on the hair and remove them.

11. Limit the use of direct heat.

The use of direct heat should be limited to 1 - 4 times per month or just special occasions. Using direct heat on a daily basis will definitely result in damaged hair. Whenever you do use direct heat, remember to use a heat protector prior to the direct heat application. Use only ceramic / tourmaline irons instead of marcel irons. Ceramic/ Tourmaline irons are less damaging to the hair. Also, never use heat on dirty hair. Heat should should be used on clean hair only. No more than 2 days after washing the hair. Using heat on dirty hair only bakes dirt into the hair. Dirty hair will burn faster and of course, cause damage. Limit blow dryers to 1 -2 times per month. It is best not to blow dry the hair at all. I only use hood hair dryers.

12. Wear protective styles.

Protective styles are styles that protect the hair ends. Usually the hair ends are tucked away protecting them from drying out. These styles involve little or no heat and does not require much manipulation of the hair. Styles such as twists, braids, buns, up-dos, cornrows, or any other style that hide the ends of your hair. Our hair ends are the most fragile because they are the oldest. These styles protect the hair in extreme cold and hot temps.

13. Know the difference between breakage and shedding.

Don’t be alarmed with hair shedding. Typically, hair sheds 50-100 strands daily. Each hair follicle has a cycle of growth which eventually will lead to death. Everyone has a different growth cycle. Shedding is different from breakage. If you see a white bulb (hair follicle) at the end of the hair strand, this would be considered normal shedding. If you don't see the follicle this may be considered hair breakage.

14. Protect your hair at night.

Always sleep in a silk/satin scarf or bonnet or use a silk/satin pillow case. Sleeping with a cotton scarf or pillowcase will cause the the hair to dry out. Cotton is very absorbent and will absorb moisture from the hair.

15. Avoid hair stylist who don't value healthy hair.

Some stylist focus more on hair 'styling' and less on hair 'health'. Find a stylist who specializes in healthy hair. If you stylist is scissor happy, heat happy or chemical happy you will never see any results.

16. Make It Simple

Find a simple hair regime that works for you. Be patient and consistent. Stick with your regime and don’t give up despite hair “set backs”. Hair normally grows 1/4th to ½ inch per month. Be patient and give your hair that extra TLC.


HHJ-Ladyno